Enclosure Size
The size of your enclosure depends on the size of species of Uromastyx you are planning to obtain, and there are very few 'hard and fast' rules; however, there are general guidelines you can follow.
Bare minimum
Due to the thermal gradient required by these (and all) lizards, and their level of activity, the minimum requirements* for Uromastyx should be the following;
Small species & hatchlings — 4'x2'x2'(120x60x60cm)
Medium species — 6'x3'x2' (180x60x60cm)
Large species — 8'x4'x2-3' (240x120x60-90cm)
A 40 gallon breeder (36"L x 18"w x 16-18"H) is often recommended for individuals, this is not acceptable for any Uromastyx. The minimum size for an Uromastyx 12" (30cm) and under is 4x2x2 feet (48x24x24" or 122x60x60cm) will provide an adequate temperature gradient and room to run. The height works well with mercury vapor bulbs as well as fluorescent bulbs for providing UVB. Uromastyx will climb if given the opportunity; they are very active lizards when their temperatures are correct.
*Please note: Larger than average specimens may require larger enclosures.
If housing more than one animal together (such as a pair), the floor dimensions should ideally be increased by 25-50%. So if housing 2 medium Uros together, and enclosure approximately 8'x4'x2' (240x120x60) would be ideal. See Housing multiple animals for more info on this.
Best size
Bigger is always better! If you can provide a larger enclosure, that will be wonderful; everything discussed on this page references the bare minimum sizes you should consider for your lizard. Trying to save money by building or buying an enclosure to the absolute minimum will simply cause problems for your lizard in the long run. A properly-sized enclosure will give your lizard more room to act as it would naturally, and give you more room to create unique landscapes as you provide a home. Remember the temperature gradient, which must be properly monitored and maintained even in these nice big enclosures, which tend to have problems with drafts.
Misconceptions
Many new owners are told that since their Uromastyx is just a baby, it will be fine in a small-sized enclosure until it grows up. This is wrong; there is no better way to damage a young Uromastyx then to start it off with improper husbandry, an imbalanced temperature gradient or lack of adequate space in various heat zones, and not enough room to move around in (not to mention the stresses of acclimatisation when moved into a new enclosure). This situation is inappropriate since it does not consider growth of the lizard. It is always better to provide a larger cage for the animal to grow into, given that extra hides need to be provided for security.
Housing multiple animals
If desired, a pair can be kept together provided you are cautious, and take some extra precautions:
-In order to successfully house multiple animals together, the enclosure floor space should be 25-50% larger.
-If possible, multiple basking spots should be provided to reduce any risk of aggression or competition.
-Do not house males together. They will fight, likely resulting in the death of at least one.
-Do not house aggressive species together. Species such as U. aegyptia spp. are known to be aggressive to conspecifics and have killed co-inhabitants when housed in groups as hatchlings.
-Do not mix different species!!! Each species comes from specific habitats, which congenerics may not necessarily do well in. Mixing species can, and often will, introduce novel pathogens to the other inhabitants. See the Disease section for more information.
- When it comes to Uromastyx enclosures, the bigger the better!
- Uros are free-roaming reptiles and often have acres of land in which to run. Anything we replicate in captivity will pale in comparison. The best we can hope for is to provide a safe, comfortable environment that will provide for all the necessary needs of this heat-loving lizard for many years to come!
- Individual lizards can be housed in smaller enclosures than lizards living with others.
- Be sure to provide the correct temperature gradient. The 'hot' side and 'cool' side must be at appropriate temperature for the species being housed.
Bare minimum
Due to the thermal gradient required by these (and all) lizards, and their level of activity, the minimum requirements* for Uromastyx should be the following;
Small species & hatchlings — 4'x2'x2'(120x60x60cm)
Medium species — 6'x3'x2' (180x60x60cm)
Large species — 8'x4'x2-3' (240x120x60-90cm)
A 40 gallon breeder (36"L x 18"w x 16-18"H) is often recommended for individuals, this is not acceptable for any Uromastyx. The minimum size for an Uromastyx 12" (30cm) and under is 4x2x2 feet (48x24x24" or 122x60x60cm) will provide an adequate temperature gradient and room to run. The height works well with mercury vapor bulbs as well as fluorescent bulbs for providing UVB. Uromastyx will climb if given the opportunity; they are very active lizards when their temperatures are correct.
*Please note: Larger than average specimens may require larger enclosures.
If housing more than one animal together (such as a pair), the floor dimensions should ideally be increased by 25-50%. So if housing 2 medium Uros together, and enclosure approximately 8'x4'x2' (240x120x60) would be ideal. See Housing multiple animals for more info on this.
Best size
Bigger is always better! If you can provide a larger enclosure, that will be wonderful; everything discussed on this page references the bare minimum sizes you should consider for your lizard. Trying to save money by building or buying an enclosure to the absolute minimum will simply cause problems for your lizard in the long run. A properly-sized enclosure will give your lizard more room to act as it would naturally, and give you more room to create unique landscapes as you provide a home. Remember the temperature gradient, which must be properly monitored and maintained even in these nice big enclosures, which tend to have problems with drafts.
Misconceptions
Many new owners are told that since their Uromastyx is just a baby, it will be fine in a small-sized enclosure until it grows up. This is wrong; there is no better way to damage a young Uromastyx then to start it off with improper husbandry, an imbalanced temperature gradient or lack of adequate space in various heat zones, and not enough room to move around in (not to mention the stresses of acclimatisation when moved into a new enclosure). This situation is inappropriate since it does not consider growth of the lizard. It is always better to provide a larger cage for the animal to grow into, given that extra hides need to be provided for security.
Housing multiple animals
If desired, a pair can be kept together provided you are cautious, and take some extra precautions:
-In order to successfully house multiple animals together, the enclosure floor space should be 25-50% larger.
-If possible, multiple basking spots should be provided to reduce any risk of aggression or competition.
-Do not house males together. They will fight, likely resulting in the death of at least one.
-Do not house aggressive species together. Species such as U. aegyptia spp. are known to be aggressive to conspecifics and have killed co-inhabitants when housed in groups as hatchlings.
-Do not mix different species!!! Each species comes from specific habitats, which congenerics may not necessarily do well in. Mixing species can, and often will, introduce novel pathogens to the other inhabitants. See the Disease section for more information.
Substrate
Substrate is the material on which your Uromastyx lives and walks. It can be many different materials, but there are some you should also avoid; as with anything which can potentially present a medical problem, prevention is better than cure.
Notice: while these are provisionally categorised as good and bad materials, there is a huge amount of debate on what should be classified as one or the other, and almost all of the materials listed, in both sections, have drawbacks as well as advantages. The current grouping is based on the majority opinion of each material, as evidenced by discussions in Uromastyx-related forums.
Generally recommended
Playsand
This is only classed as safe for an older Uromastyx, as defined by being over 18cm (7") in length. Once washed (to remove dust) and sifted for larger particles, it produces no dust and is easy to keep clean so long as faeces are completely removed straight away. Most keepers recommend a playsand substrate is completely changed every six months, and pool filter sand or natural (weathered, not crushed) playsand is said to be the best variety. It is important to note that there is a sizeable faction who argue that Uromastyx do not actually live on sand in the wild; they live in semi-arid areas with solid sun-baked ground covered by a layer of dust, and therefore a sand substrate may look nice but isn't natural and poses an impaction hazard.
(Note: in the context of playsand, 'washing' refers to a process of filtering. This is often achieved simply by putting the sand into a fabric sack - an old pillowcase is ideal - and pouring or pumping water through until the water runs clear. This removes the finer dust-producing articles from the bulk of the playsand and leaves it safer for use in an enclosure.)
Soil
A recent trend with Uromastyx (or any reptile for that matter) keepers is to provide a substrate that closely mimics what they are found in/on in the wild. The answer to this is soil. Soil is generally a mix of sand, silt, and clay, and may or may not contain organic matter. In the wild, Uromastyx are generally found on course sandy soil and gravelly soil (Wilms et al, 2009) as well as rocky outcrops, all with sparse vegetation. This translates to a soil that is hard, compact, and has little to no organic matter. These soils allow for a high drainage rate, while also being capable of holding the needed moisture in their burrows. For the most success, these soil mixes should be at least 18'' deep to promote burrowing, as well as provide a moist hide. If using a deep soil layer, make sure any heavy objects (rocks, logs, etc) are secured in a way that won't allow the animal to burrow under it, causing it to collapse upon itself. There are a few variations that have been successful in captivity; the following lists those mixtures, as well as notes about each:
-Decomposed granite (not screened). If available, this is one of the best soils in enclosures. It contains a myriad of particle sizes, and holds moisture fairly well.
- Crushed stone dust/sand/silt (or clay) mix (mixed at approximately 2:2:0.5-1). For those in Northeastern USA or Eastern Canada, the crushed stone dust is usually pulverised limestone. This mix works well, and is almost on par with decomposed granite.
- Playsand & Topsoil (or compost, peat, etc.). This is the usual mix recommended for many desert species, despite it probably being the farthest of these 3 from their natural habitat. Firstly, "topsoil" is a generic term for the top layer of soil. Depending on the place of collection, this can either be mostly true soil, or actually contain very little true soil and be mostly composed of organic matter. Over time, this organic matter can decompose, resulting in a less successful soil structure for these animals. A high organic matter can also hold too much moisture and reduce drainage capability.
Tiles
Either slate, which is also good for keeping claws in order, other rough stone tiles to prevent slipping, which are also easy to maintain as they just wipe clean and are easily disinfected. Some keepers have used locally-available granite, and while radon buildup is a possible concern, any enclosure with good ventilation and positive pressure shouldn't be affected.
Newspaper/paper
This is a good idea if you're concerned about cost and ease of cleaning. It's not the prettiest set-up for your tank, but it works well. The ink in the newspaper will not harm your lizard - it's designed to be non-toxic (for regular contact with human skin) with dirty-looking feet being the worst that could happen. Butcher paper, blank newsprint or some other, plain paper may be better in terms of avoiding ink smudges. Be aware that your lizard may hide under the newspaper.
Paper towels
This is a good idea for very young or new Uromastyx, of 18cm (7") or less. It allows you to change out the substrate as soon as they urinate or defecate, and you are more easily able to observe their defecation patterns to ensure that they're healthy and settling in well.
Generally not recommended
Most of the following materials are bad for many reasons. A lot of stores may try and tell you that they are suitable, they may even be using them themselves, but each of the following has proven to cause problems with Uromastyx, bearded dragons, and other reptiles, and should be avoided..
Reptile carpet (also known as Repti-carpet)
It's easy to clean; even easier if you have more than one piece cut to fit in the cage, in which case you can simply swap the new piece in and clean the old piece. The down side is that Uromastyx normally pass a bowel movement every day, requiring the cleaning and replacement of the carpet and decorations on a daily basis; also, Repti-carpet has been known as a factor in damaged claws (they can get caught in the fabric) and, if not cleaned scrupulously, can be a good breeding-ground for harmful bacteria.
Corn cob
This is not only an impaction substrate, but one that harbours fungus and bacteria.
Birdseed
Some keepers keep their lizard on birdseed or millet, and although you can use these materials with varying degrees of success, this is generally not recommended as it tends to be harder to maintain and less hygenic. There are two major downfalls to using millet/birdseed. The first is hygiene; keeping animals on an edible substrate allows them to eat the same stuff they have been defecating in. This is incredibly unhygienic and could lead to problems. The second major drawback occurs when using a deep layer of seed. A deep layer creates a "ball pit" effect when the animal walks on it, making it harder to move around properly. Seed (or any organic, grain-based substrate) can also promote mold and bacteria growth. If using millet, make sure it does not contain sunflower seeds, which are unhealthy.
Crushed walnut shell
To most people this looks harmless enough, but the edges are very sharp and when ingested, these sharp edges can cut your Uromastyx on the inside and cause internal bleeding, infections, and other medical problems. If it does pass through when ingested, it is often trapped in the vent area.
Calcium sand (also known as Calci-sand) & Vitamin Sand
All too often, when a new keeper walks into the pet store looking for supplies, the clerks point them to this product. They then go on about how it's safe, edible, and gives the animals their needed calcium. After-all, that's what it says on the bag; why would it be there to deceive us? The problem with this product is twofold. First, lizards often like the taste of it and may eat it if they are lacking adequate calcium in their diet. In theory this is fine, except all tests show that it is not digestible, no matter what the product states, and it has been known to clump and form an indigestible bolus in their digestive tract. This happens due to the calcium carbonate (an alkaline compound) reacting with the stomach acid (which is obviously acidic), neutralizing any acid allowing the calcium carbonate to build up and block any openings. This often leads to impaction, paralysis and eventually death.
Repti Bark
This is very fibrous and could easily end up causing impaction, and has been known to end up lodged in the vent. It's also extremely unnatural for arid species.
Any of the wood shavings
These should generally be avoided, particularly soft woods such as cedar or pine - both contain dangerous aromatic oils which emit fumes which are toxic to your lizard (see the article on building materials).
Impaction
When you mention anything about sand, soil, or any non-paper substrates in many reptile forums/groups, one of the most common responses is, "Don't do that! It will cause impaction!". Impaction —the binding of particles in the stomach or intestinal tract leading to death— is a highly misunderstood illness that can be prevented 99% of the time. When one looks objectively at most of the cases of impaction, it can most certainly be traced back to improper husbandry. Impaction can be the result of many things such as dehydration, malnutrition, improper substrate (calcium sand, walnut shells, etc.), or other aspects of husbandry. Provided your animals are well hydrated, eating well, and otherwise healthy and cared for properly, impaction will be an incredibly small risk.
Notice: while these are provisionally categorised as good and bad materials, there is a huge amount of debate on what should be classified as one or the other, and almost all of the materials listed, in both sections, have drawbacks as well as advantages. The current grouping is based on the majority opinion of each material, as evidenced by discussions in Uromastyx-related forums.
Generally recommended
Playsand
This is only classed as safe for an older Uromastyx, as defined by being over 18cm (7") in length. Once washed (to remove dust) and sifted for larger particles, it produces no dust and is easy to keep clean so long as faeces are completely removed straight away. Most keepers recommend a playsand substrate is completely changed every six months, and pool filter sand or natural (weathered, not crushed) playsand is said to be the best variety. It is important to note that there is a sizeable faction who argue that Uromastyx do not actually live on sand in the wild; they live in semi-arid areas with solid sun-baked ground covered by a layer of dust, and therefore a sand substrate may look nice but isn't natural and poses an impaction hazard.
(Note: in the context of playsand, 'washing' refers to a process of filtering. This is often achieved simply by putting the sand into a fabric sack - an old pillowcase is ideal - and pouring or pumping water through until the water runs clear. This removes the finer dust-producing articles from the bulk of the playsand and leaves it safer for use in an enclosure.)
Soil
A recent trend with Uromastyx (or any reptile for that matter) keepers is to provide a substrate that closely mimics what they are found in/on in the wild. The answer to this is soil. Soil is generally a mix of sand, silt, and clay, and may or may not contain organic matter. In the wild, Uromastyx are generally found on course sandy soil and gravelly soil (Wilms et al, 2009) as well as rocky outcrops, all with sparse vegetation. This translates to a soil that is hard, compact, and has little to no organic matter. These soils allow for a high drainage rate, while also being capable of holding the needed moisture in their burrows. For the most success, these soil mixes should be at least 18'' deep to promote burrowing, as well as provide a moist hide. If using a deep soil layer, make sure any heavy objects (rocks, logs, etc) are secured in a way that won't allow the animal to burrow under it, causing it to collapse upon itself. There are a few variations that have been successful in captivity; the following lists those mixtures, as well as notes about each:
-Decomposed granite (not screened). If available, this is one of the best soils in enclosures. It contains a myriad of particle sizes, and holds moisture fairly well.
- Crushed stone dust/sand/silt (or clay) mix (mixed at approximately 2:2:0.5-1). For those in Northeastern USA or Eastern Canada, the crushed stone dust is usually pulverised limestone. This mix works well, and is almost on par with decomposed granite.
- Playsand & Topsoil (or compost, peat, etc.). This is the usual mix recommended for many desert species, despite it probably being the farthest of these 3 from their natural habitat. Firstly, "topsoil" is a generic term for the top layer of soil. Depending on the place of collection, this can either be mostly true soil, or actually contain very little true soil and be mostly composed of organic matter. Over time, this organic matter can decompose, resulting in a less successful soil structure for these animals. A high organic matter can also hold too much moisture and reduce drainage capability.
Tiles
Either slate, which is also good for keeping claws in order, other rough stone tiles to prevent slipping, which are also easy to maintain as they just wipe clean and are easily disinfected. Some keepers have used locally-available granite, and while radon buildup is a possible concern, any enclosure with good ventilation and positive pressure shouldn't be affected.
Newspaper/paper
This is a good idea if you're concerned about cost and ease of cleaning. It's not the prettiest set-up for your tank, but it works well. The ink in the newspaper will not harm your lizard - it's designed to be non-toxic (for regular contact with human skin) with dirty-looking feet being the worst that could happen. Butcher paper, blank newsprint or some other, plain paper may be better in terms of avoiding ink smudges. Be aware that your lizard may hide under the newspaper.
Paper towels
This is a good idea for very young or new Uromastyx, of 18cm (7") or less. It allows you to change out the substrate as soon as they urinate or defecate, and you are more easily able to observe their defecation patterns to ensure that they're healthy and settling in well.
Generally not recommended
Most of the following materials are bad for many reasons. A lot of stores may try and tell you that they are suitable, they may even be using them themselves, but each of the following has proven to cause problems with Uromastyx, bearded dragons, and other reptiles, and should be avoided..
Reptile carpet (also known as Repti-carpet)
It's easy to clean; even easier if you have more than one piece cut to fit in the cage, in which case you can simply swap the new piece in and clean the old piece. The down side is that Uromastyx normally pass a bowel movement every day, requiring the cleaning and replacement of the carpet and decorations on a daily basis; also, Repti-carpet has been known as a factor in damaged claws (they can get caught in the fabric) and, if not cleaned scrupulously, can be a good breeding-ground for harmful bacteria.
Corn cob
This is not only an impaction substrate, but one that harbours fungus and bacteria.
Birdseed
Some keepers keep their lizard on birdseed or millet, and although you can use these materials with varying degrees of success, this is generally not recommended as it tends to be harder to maintain and less hygenic. There are two major downfalls to using millet/birdseed. The first is hygiene; keeping animals on an edible substrate allows them to eat the same stuff they have been defecating in. This is incredibly unhygienic and could lead to problems. The second major drawback occurs when using a deep layer of seed. A deep layer creates a "ball pit" effect when the animal walks on it, making it harder to move around properly. Seed (or any organic, grain-based substrate) can also promote mold and bacteria growth. If using millet, make sure it does not contain sunflower seeds, which are unhealthy.
Crushed walnut shell
To most people this looks harmless enough, but the edges are very sharp and when ingested, these sharp edges can cut your Uromastyx on the inside and cause internal bleeding, infections, and other medical problems. If it does pass through when ingested, it is often trapped in the vent area.
Calcium sand (also known as Calci-sand) & Vitamin Sand
All too often, when a new keeper walks into the pet store looking for supplies, the clerks point them to this product. They then go on about how it's safe, edible, and gives the animals their needed calcium. After-all, that's what it says on the bag; why would it be there to deceive us? The problem with this product is twofold. First, lizards often like the taste of it and may eat it if they are lacking adequate calcium in their diet. In theory this is fine, except all tests show that it is not digestible, no matter what the product states, and it has been known to clump and form an indigestible bolus in their digestive tract. This happens due to the calcium carbonate (an alkaline compound) reacting with the stomach acid (which is obviously acidic), neutralizing any acid allowing the calcium carbonate to build up and block any openings. This often leads to impaction, paralysis and eventually death.
Repti Bark
This is very fibrous and could easily end up causing impaction, and has been known to end up lodged in the vent. It's also extremely unnatural for arid species.
Any of the wood shavings
These should generally be avoided, particularly soft woods such as cedar or pine - both contain dangerous aromatic oils which emit fumes which are toxic to your lizard (see the article on building materials).
Impaction
When you mention anything about sand, soil, or any non-paper substrates in many reptile forums/groups, one of the most common responses is, "Don't do that! It will cause impaction!". Impaction —the binding of particles in the stomach or intestinal tract leading to death— is a highly misunderstood illness that can be prevented 99% of the time. When one looks objectively at most of the cases of impaction, it can most certainly be traced back to improper husbandry. Impaction can be the result of many things such as dehydration, malnutrition, improper substrate (calcium sand, walnut shells, etc.), or other aspects of husbandry. Provided your animals are well hydrated, eating well, and otherwise healthy and cared for properly, impaction will be an incredibly small risk.
Positive Pressure
What is positive pressure?
Positive pressure comes when you have more air flowing into an enclosed space than you have flowing out, meaning that the pressure of excess air will cause 'leaks' out of the space, but as a bonus will help keep dust out. Negative pressure, conversely, is when more air is being sucked out of a space than is in it - so any gaps will be sucking in air like a vacuum cleaner. In a terrarium enclosure, it is preferable not to have any fans at all (neutral pressure) in order to help stabilise your temperature gradient; but if you find you need to add a fan to help with ventilation and airflow, you will want it blowing inwards at the cool end to create positive pressure, help manage dust and create a stable airflow pattern.
How should I set up my enclosure with a fan?
Preferably, you shouldn't. An enclosure that's properly setup should have adequate airflow and good natural convection. However, this isn't always the case, in which case this guide is for you! The best place to set your fan is high up in the cool end, in or near the roof of your enclosure, so there is no danger and no need for a guard. However, a dust filter on the outside is a must. You should bear the following points in mind when considering adding a fan to your enclosure setup:
Computer fans suck at sucking
Blowing out will simply draw air from the warm end to the cool end and mix them, destroying your thermal gradient.
Blowing in is best
However, aside from the point above, it's also good because it creates positive pressure inside the terrarium - this means that all the other gaps and holes will 'leak' air (since more is coming in than is going out), preventing dust from entering through these, and also forcing any existing enclosure dust out. Negative pressure will, contrarily, encourage dust to flow in from all the other gaps.
Fresh air will affect temperatures
Make sure you take this into account, checking temperatures and thermal gradient both with and without the fan.
Important note: a lot of the ’noise’ of fans comes through low-frequency contact vibrations, which may disturb your lizard, so make sure it is either seated firmly to your enclosure, or else use silicone pads or similar to dampen the vibrations. A voltage regulator or other fan controller will let you fine-tune the amount of airflow into your terrarium which will help with the thermal gradient and airflow management.
Positive pressure comes when you have more air flowing into an enclosed space than you have flowing out, meaning that the pressure of excess air will cause 'leaks' out of the space, but as a bonus will help keep dust out. Negative pressure, conversely, is when more air is being sucked out of a space than is in it - so any gaps will be sucking in air like a vacuum cleaner. In a terrarium enclosure, it is preferable not to have any fans at all (neutral pressure) in order to help stabilise your temperature gradient; but if you find you need to add a fan to help with ventilation and airflow, you will want it blowing inwards at the cool end to create positive pressure, help manage dust and create a stable airflow pattern.
How should I set up my enclosure with a fan?
Preferably, you shouldn't. An enclosure that's properly setup should have adequate airflow and good natural convection. However, this isn't always the case, in which case this guide is for you! The best place to set your fan is high up in the cool end, in or near the roof of your enclosure, so there is no danger and no need for a guard. However, a dust filter on the outside is a must. You should bear the following points in mind when considering adding a fan to your enclosure setup:
Computer fans suck at sucking
Blowing out will simply draw air from the warm end to the cool end and mix them, destroying your thermal gradient.
Blowing in is best
However, aside from the point above, it's also good because it creates positive pressure inside the terrarium - this means that all the other gaps and holes will 'leak' air (since more is coming in than is going out), preventing dust from entering through these, and also forcing any existing enclosure dust out. Negative pressure will, contrarily, encourage dust to flow in from all the other gaps.
Fresh air will affect temperatures
Make sure you take this into account, checking temperatures and thermal gradient both with and without the fan.
Important note: a lot of the ’noise’ of fans comes through low-frequency contact vibrations, which may disturb your lizard, so make sure it is either seated firmly to your enclosure, or else use silicone pads or similar to dampen the vibrations. A voltage regulator or other fan controller will let you fine-tune the amount of airflow into your terrarium which will help with the thermal gradient and airflow management.
Basking Platform Materials
For as long as Uromastyx have been kept, far too many Uromastyx keepers use "basking areas" that are pretty much useless for a Uromastyx. Some people believe that the basking place is simply an area of the sand where the basking bulb is located above and heats that area more than other areas. Instead, a basking 'Platform' should be created. There are several simple ways to accomplish this.
But why need a platform and not just a spot on the sand? The answer is simple. Uromastyx need a basking platform, where the surface temperature (measured by IR temp gun) is between 120-140F. This cannot be accomplished by the use of sand. There are various materials available for basking platforms, let's take a look at each and see why they may or may not be suitable for your Uromastyx.
Driftwood
Pet stores will always try and sell people driftwood, which in most cases is fine for most reptiles. However, this will not hold any sufficient temperatures for a Uromastyx. Use of driftwood for general enclosure use is good, it gives the Uromastyx something to climb on, but is not very suitable as a basking platform.
Slate/Tile
Probably the best option, due to its ability to absorb and maintain heat. Natural slate, pavers or tile will all heat up well when placed under your main basking bulbs. These materials all maintain heat very well, which will allow your Uromastyx to not only soak up their heat on top of your basking platform, but maybe the platform is elevated and they can go under the platform for use as a hide at night, or just a place to hang out during the day where the temperatures are warm, but they are not taking in UVB. The only things to be careful with when using these materials is:
There is a massive variety of rocks that could be used for reptiles, doing a little bit of research into what materials other keeps use should give a general picture of what can be safely used. Again, like tile avoid anything that has been treated with any kind of chemicals that might emit toxins at high temperatures. AND! very importantly, be sure to go back and get the aquarium silicone (or GE Silicone I — same thing but cheaper) to glue them together. Nobody wants a rock slide in their enclosure that will harm their Uromastyx. You can also get large rocks that can be stacked like in the picture that can be utilized as a basking platform. The rocks do not hold heat as well as slate does, and may require high wattage bulbs to bring the basking temperature to the proper range, but also do give the enclosure a different look and feel then slate does.
But why need a platform and not just a spot on the sand? The answer is simple. Uromastyx need a basking platform, where the surface temperature (measured by IR temp gun) is between 120-140F. This cannot be accomplished by the use of sand. There are various materials available for basking platforms, let's take a look at each and see why they may or may not be suitable for your Uromastyx.
Driftwood
Pet stores will always try and sell people driftwood, which in most cases is fine for most reptiles. However, this will not hold any sufficient temperatures for a Uromastyx. Use of driftwood for general enclosure use is good, it gives the Uromastyx something to climb on, but is not very suitable as a basking platform.
Slate/Tile
Probably the best option, due to its ability to absorb and maintain heat. Natural slate, pavers or tile will all heat up well when placed under your main basking bulbs. These materials all maintain heat very well, which will allow your Uromastyx to not only soak up their heat on top of your basking platform, but maybe the platform is elevated and they can go under the platform for use as a hide at night, or just a place to hang out during the day where the temperatures are warm, but they are not taking in UVB. The only things to be careful with when using these materials is:
- Stability - Be sure that your Uromastyx can NOT move or knock over any piece of the basking platform. You may want to invest $5 in a small tube of aquarium silicone to use as an adhesive and make a stronger platform that the Uromastyx have no chance of harming themselves with.
- Coating - Be sure you are not buying tiles with any type of coating or polish. The chemicals used in the coating could begin to overheat and may emit hazardous toxins into your Uromastyx enclosure. Best thing to do is stick with natural stone tile or slate, which uses no additional coating.
There is a massive variety of rocks that could be used for reptiles, doing a little bit of research into what materials other keeps use should give a general picture of what can be safely used. Again, like tile avoid anything that has been treated with any kind of chemicals that might emit toxins at high temperatures. AND! very importantly, be sure to go back and get the aquarium silicone (or GE Silicone I — same thing but cheaper) to glue them together. Nobody wants a rock slide in their enclosure that will harm their Uromastyx. You can also get large rocks that can be stacked like in the picture that can be utilized as a basking platform. The rocks do not hold heat as well as slate does, and may require high wattage bulbs to bring the basking temperature to the proper range, but also do give the enclosure a different look and feel then slate does.
Building supplies
Engineered wood products can be confusing for many people, and knowing what to build an enclosure out of can often be a challenge. There are several different types commonly used in making reptile enclosures.
Types of wood
Solid wood
Solid wood is typically the most expensive. Untreated wood can be found in a variety of sizes, but becomes unrealistic after a certain width. Cost is also based on the number and size of knots in the wood.
It can be shaped and sanded with almost all wood tools. It can be stained, painted, or coated with most products. It is also one of the lightest materials by volume. Besides cost, another downside is it is more likely to warp, expand and contract.
Plywood has at least one side with a solid wood veneer. The veneers are are made from a large log that has been peeled around the edge making thin, but wide, pieces. These layers are pressed and glued with the grains facing at 90 degrees. Plywood comes in all types of wood veneers.
Only the outer facing edges are made from the hardwoods. For example your standard oak plywood has either pine, douglas fir, poplar or other fast growing tree as the core. Also hardwood plywood can come with particleboard or MDF core. Prices vary by number and size of knots and by how it is sanded. Plywood can be sanded to an extent and the veneer treated like solid wood for coverings.
OSB
OSB is short for oriented strand board. This is made of large particles of wood chips positioned in overlapping directions then pressed and glued together. This can't be sanded and does not have a smooth surface when painted, and is mostly used as an underlayer. Particleboard is made with smaller particle of softwoods that have been pressed and glued into sheets. This product is covered with melamine and accounts for the majority of melamine board found in hardware stores. This material is heavier than solid wood; however, it lacks grains so warping, expanding and contraction are for the most part eliminated. Due to the size of particles it does not react well to sanding and shaping.
Some downsides to particleboard are it is less structurally sound than wood, it does not paint as smooth, and the wood does not hold up to moisture well. The last problem is fixed when coated with melamine. There are several different processes for applying the melamine.
MDF
MDF or medium density fibre board is similar to particleboard except the size of the particles used are significantly smaller (think cardboard fibers instead of large sawdust). The process of heating, pressing and gluing removes most of natural resins from softwoods that cause problems in reptiles. This also can be covered in melamine.
This is nowhere as near as common as particleboard cored melamine. It is heavier and more expensive. In North America this is typically a special order item and not stocked in hardware stores like Home Depot and Lowes.
MDF gives off a very fine dust when cut or sanded and special precaution must be made as it irritates the eyes and respiratory system. It can be painted and shaped similar to wood. It is heavier than particleboard and can split or crack when using screws.
Formaldehyde in wood products
The amount of formaldehyde in the gluesParticleboard and MDF are both indoor-only products. They both react poorly when exposed to water. This is because of the glue used to hold the particles together. Formaldehyde is contained within these glues.
Urea-formaldehyde is used in both these products and hardwood plywood. HCHO or formaldehyde is released from hydrolysis or, in simpler terms, water breaks the glue into two parts, one being formaldehyde. So the introduction of water (liquid or vapour from humidity) without sealant can not only make the product expand/warp, but the glue breaks down, releasing formaldehyde. Solid woods obviously contain no type of formaldehyde so there is no worry there.
OSB and softwood plywood are glued with phenol-formaldehyde. These are made for outdoor use and can resist moisture much better. Phenol-formaldehyde releases about 1% the amount of emissions MDF historically does.
Why is formaldehyde bad?Formaldehyde emits toxic gases which are dangerous, or potentially lethal, to your lizard's health. Although you are unlikely to encounter problems with water (or humidity) due to the Uromastyx' low humidity requirements, accidents cannot be discounted. A much more serious concern is the high temperatures required by the Uromastyx releasing formaldehyde emissions from the wood. Materials containing any sort of formaldehyde-based glue should absolutely be avoided for this reason.
Formaldehyde limits by locationIn the USA, formaldehyde emissions are limited to 0.3ppm (parts per million). California has a formaldehyde emission-free policy. In the EU, Germany seems to be the strictest county with 0.1ppm. Norway, Hungary and Australia also all have limitations. At the time of writing this article, the UK and China have no such restrictions.