Water Bowl
When it comes to Uromastyx, there is no need to include a waterbowl. Uros get their hydration through their food. Although water can be introduced with dehydrated animals, a high-water diet may be more effective, and uros are more likely to drag soil and waste through the water, than drink from it.
Soaking
Despite what other caresheets may say, Uromastyx should never be bathed. This is because they come from a climate which has naturally low humidity, and high levels of humidity should generally be avoided because they have been known to be responsible for medical conditions including respiratory infections and tail rot. All of a healthy Uromastyx' fluid intake should come through its diet, and the responsible keeper should have a hygrometer at each end of the enclosure to measure air humidity. There is a common misconception being passed around between many lizard keepers; that being soaking will help rehydrate dehydrated animals. This is false! Uromastyx have evolved to retain as much water as possible — having a skin that easily absorbs (and therefore easily releases it through evaporation) would be counter-productive. The only way to successfully hydrate a Uromastyx is orally, mostly through food.
Although vets have been known to advise bathing to rehydrate an Uromastyx, this has often been shown to be the advice of a reptile vet not familiar with Uromastyx, rather than a qualified Uromastyx vet, as many reptile vets are unfamiliar with the special environmental requirements of the Uromastyx specifically. You should not need to clean your Uromastyx, as its continuous shedding will remove any old skin, and if it is getting dusty then you probably need to change your substrate.
If you feel that your Uromastyx is in danger of dehydration and you have been advised to soak it, please do not do so. Any dehydration in an Uromastyx is more likely caused by incorrect or imbalanced feeding, since this lizard derives all its fluid intake from the greens it eats. To get more fluid into your lizard's diet, all of the following are recommended and certainly much safer than bathing:
Although vets have been known to advise bathing to rehydrate an Uromastyx, this has often been shown to be the advice of a reptile vet not familiar with Uromastyx, rather than a qualified Uromastyx vet, as many reptile vets are unfamiliar with the special environmental requirements of the Uromastyx specifically. You should not need to clean your Uromastyx, as its continuous shedding will remove any old skin, and if it is getting dusty then you probably need to change your substrate.
If you feel that your Uromastyx is in danger of dehydration and you have been advised to soak it, please do not do so. Any dehydration in an Uromastyx is more likely caused by incorrect or imbalanced feeding, since this lizard derives all its fluid intake from the greens it eats. To get more fluid into your lizard's diet, all of the following are recommended and certainly much safer than bathing:
- Grapes (a good source of fluid)
- Romaine lettuce (a good source of fluid)
- Rinsing or misting the food before putting it into the enclosure, so that drops remain on the surface
General/Relative Humidity
As Uromastyx come from a naturally dry part of the world, they normally require low humidity levels of less than 40%, although they can survive quite easily in levels up to 60% for a period of time. High levels of humidity (70% or more) for extended periods of time with no escape can cause respiratory infections and eventual death. However, burrowing arid species retreat to humid hides for safety, and moisture. A study done by Wilms et al (2010) showed that Uromastyx (in this case U. a. microlepis) experience humidity levels up to 98.4%. This high rH level is within the burrows, indicating that they experience humidity levels much higher than what most recommend in captivity. Some coastal species, such as U. thomasi & U. benti are also found in habitats with slightly higher humidity, compared to those found in the middle of Northern Africa. F. Harvey Pough put it nicely:
"In their natural environments, most amphibians and reptiles spend their time at the ground surface, under leaf litter, or in burrows. As a result they are exposed to microclimates (especially humidities and rates of air movement) that are very different from those perceived by large animals like humans. Even desert species spend much of their time in burrows or buried in loose sand. Relative humidity approaches saturation in these microhabitats, and the low humidities characteristic of heated and air-conditioned buildings can be stressful even for desert reptiles. Relative humidities should be maintained above 70 percent (preferably at 80 percent) for nearly all species of amphibians and reptiles. However, most reptiles develop skin lesions when they are kept on wet substrates for long periods." (Pough,1991)
Due to the dehydrating effects of the Halogen bulbs used for basking, the cool side should have a relative humidity (rH) level of approximately 40-50%. A humid hide should be provided, with an rH level of 60-80% (this is not always needed, but is almost a necessity for breeding females).
Exceptions
In some situations the Uromastyx may require a more humid environment, in which event the keeper can provide a humid hide in which the humidity is much higher. This is especially important for lizards going through a difficult shed or nesting egg-laying chambers for gravid females. The humid hides should be slightly damp and not wet. These humid hides are not always feasible in smaller enclosures, and can actually cause harm if the animal has no other choices and the enclosure is not large enough. Ideally, they should only be provided in large enclosures, in addition to which there should be several dry hides in various heat zones if in fact a humid hide/chamber is provided.
Exceptions
In some situations the Uromastyx may require a more humid environment, in which event the keeper can provide a humid hide in which the humidity is much higher. This is especially important for lizards going through a difficult shed or nesting egg-laying chambers for gravid females. The humid hides should be slightly damp and not wet. These humid hides are not always feasible in smaller enclosures, and can actually cause harm if the animal has no other choices and the enclosure is not large enough. Ideally, they should only be provided in large enclosures, in addition to which there should be several dry hides in various heat zones if in fact a humid hide/chamber is provided.
Providing a humid hide
There are 2 main ways to provide a humid hide.
The first is to provide a deep soil layer (see enclosure/husbandry section) that allows the animal to dig its own burrow, regulating the levels it has access to by adjusting it to its own needs. This approach is the most natural, and provided a proper soil mixture is used, very effective and successful.
The second way is to build the humid hide into the floor.There are multiple ways to dothis, but here is a simple step-by-step on how to do one way:
Step 1: Frame flooring. Provide enough supports to hold up each floor tile. Frame around the humid hide area, adding 0.5'' in all directions to account for the slate lining. A good rule of thumb for humid hide dimensions is Length = 1.5X lizard length; Width = SVL length of lizard; height= 3.5 inches. This is usually more than big enough for a humid hide, and provides a tight, humid spot for the Uromastyx. Of course, as with everything, bigger is better and a bigger humid hide will provide a larger humidity gradient.
The first is to provide a deep soil layer (see enclosure/husbandry section) that allows the animal to dig its own burrow, regulating the levels it has access to by adjusting it to its own needs. This approach is the most natural, and provided a proper soil mixture is used, very effective and successful.
The second way is to build the humid hide into the floor.There are multiple ways to dothis, but here is a simple step-by-step on how to do one way:
Step 1: Frame flooring. Provide enough supports to hold up each floor tile. Frame around the humid hide area, adding 0.5'' in all directions to account for the slate lining. A good rule of thumb for humid hide dimensions is Length = 1.5X lizard length; Width = SVL length of lizard; height= 3.5 inches. This is usually more than big enough for a humid hide, and provides a tight, humid spot for the Uromastyx. Of course, as with everything, bigger is better and a bigger humid hide will provide a larger humidity gradient.
Step 2: Line the humid hide with slate (or plywood) and seal all corners with silicone. If using plywood to line the inside, be sure to seal the plywood so it does not succumb to moisture damage.
Step 3:Apply Tile floor. Leave a 1/2'' over hang on all sides of the hide for the slate lid to sit on top of. Floor tiles can either be siliconed in-place, or placed loosely for easily removal.
Step 4: Fill humid hide with 1" of moisture retaining soil. Organic matter (Sphagnum moss, peat, cocofiber, topsoil) can be used, however a mineral-based soil will last far longer and not be nearly as messy. Substrates that have worked include sand, clay, silt, Turface™, decomposed granite, etc. Soil should be moist, but not sopping wet.
Step 5: Place slate lid on top of hide (do not silicone lid down!). a hole slightly bigger than the Uromastyx should be cut in the slate to allow access in to and out of the hide.
Step 6: Decorate the rest of the cage as you normally would, making sure you don't cover up the slate lid too much so can easily access it if needed(adding water, removing eggs, etc.)
Once the soil has started to dry, add enough water to keep it slightly moist (not sopping wet!) at all times. During the breeding season, the hide can be filled with more soil and promote burrowing and egg-laying in females.